Cat do their own thing. That’s one of the reasons we like them so much. However, this can also mean that we’re not quite as aware of their habits as we are of their canine compadres. Some subtle changes can be tough to pick up, especially if you have more than one cat. In fact, the majority of cats that I diagnose with diabetes are not initially seen for any specific reason. Nope, they come in for ADR. ADR, you ask? Yup, “Ain’t Doin’ Right”!

Most cat parents just feel that their feline friend is just a little “off” or “not feeling himself.” Probing questions from your vet may show that you notice more than you think: “yes, he does seem to be drinking more water” or “you know, the litter is a lot more sodden than usual.” Based on what your vet sees, a simple blood and urine test confirms that your pet’s glucose regulation is awry; a diagnosis of diabetes mellitus.

While this can be shocking news, believe me, diabetes is not the worst thing that could happen. Yes, it will involve fairly extensive testing during the regulation period, and yes, it requires lifelong treatment but the silver lining is that it is eminently treatable. Diabetes is certainly a serious disease but the good news is that we have the tools and the expertise to manage this condition effectively for the life of your pet. Petplan vets can help. Read on for their handy information on the disease, symptoms and treatment.

Believe it
Diabetes isn’t just for people, fuzzy little kitties get it too. The root of the problem is insulin, a hormone that helps the cells in our bodies to utilize glucose from the bloodstream. When the pancreas stops producing insulin or when a cat becomes resistant to it, cells are no longer able to accept the required amount of glucose. In short, insulin is the key to getting essential glucose into a cell. Without the key, cells aren’t able to do their job due to lack of fuel.

Spot it
You know your cat better than anyone. By keeping a close eye on his habits you’re more likely to spot the signs of diabetes (or even just ADR) in the early stages. While obese cats, elderly cats and neutered male cats are all at increased risk for diabetes, it is possible for any cat to contract diabetes at any point in his or her life.  The most common signs are:
- Increased thirst - Spending more time in front of the water bowl or seeking water from unusual sources like the toilet or bath.
- Increased and more frequent urination - An increase in the amount of urine in the litter box or even “accidents” around the house. The urine tends to be very diluted and is not usually strong smelling.
- Increased appetite – Your cat’s body is telling him that it’s not getting enough food; this can result in what seems to be an unreasonably large appetite despite sometimes losing weight.
- Walking low on their back legs – An abnormality caused by the way that hyperglycemia affects connective tissue can cause your cat to place a greater portion of their back leg on the floor while walking. Look for your cat walking on more than just their back foot; often the entire portion of the lower leg up to the hock will be placed on the floor.

As cells call out for glucose, the body starts to mobilize fat stores and even muscle tissue despite the fact that there is an excess of glucose in the blood. In advanced, untreated diabetes, this can lead to weakness, depression, rapid breathing, coma and even death. Needless to say, if you notice any of these symptoms, it’s important to get your cat to his veterinarian immediately for blood work and a complete diagnostic exam.

Treat It
The cornerstones of diabetic treatment are insulin therapy and diet. The goal of a change in diet is two-fold:
1) To maintain (or achieve) a healthy weight that encourages good glucose regulation. Most of the prescription diets made for this purpose are low in calories to ensure that your furry diabetic can stay lean.
2) To use a food that is relatively high in fiber so that it encourages a steadier release of glucose into the bloodstream. A high-fiber food helps to avoid “spikes” in glucose that can hinder glucose regulation.
Your veterinarian should be able to give you samples of wet and dry foods for your pet to try.

The part of treatment that most pet owners dread is the insulin injection. Almost all of my clients are shocked at how easy this becomes; most of their cats don’t even realize they’re getting a shot. The hardest part of giving insulin injections is adjusting schedules so that there is always someone there to give the insulin. Commitment is key: your cat will most likely need injections every 12 hours for the rest of his life.

While this may all seem very daunting, most diabetics do very well once they are through the stabilization period (usually one to three months of weekly or monthly testing) and often thrive on the attention. For help along the way, take the time to ask your vet for educational resources and advice for caring for your furry friend.

January gets all the credit. It may be the official start of the calendar year, but for most of us, September marks a new beginning. With the kids off to school and social calendars gearing up for fall, September ushers in new routines for everyone, especially your dog. After months of your good company, furry family members are left to wonder: “Where’d everybody go?” With best friends away all day and shorter sunlight hours for outdoor play, the change of season can lead to separation anxiety, stress and shoe-chewing, rug-peeing boredom. To help ease your pup through this tough transition (and spare your furnishings,) occupy those idle paws with these pup-proven boredom busters.

Pup Puzzlers.  One part delicious treat, one part toy, the food puzzler is a doggie dream.  To keep your dog happy and engaged long after the morning rush, pack peanut butter or pumpkin puree inside a Kong toy and freeze it. Or, for cooler days, just fill the Kong with a mix of kibble and wet dog food for an extra special treat. Then, present the food puzzle to your dog just before leaving each day.  He’ll be so busy figuring out how to get the goodies out, he won’t have time to whine or cry at the door. Some of Petplan policyholders also like to tune in to TV or special DVDs designed just for pets. The background noise and engaging images keep them company until their people come home.

Mid-Day Dash.  You know it’s true. Well-exercised dogs are well-behaved dogs. Go too long between walks and your dog will release his energy onto anything in paw’s reach (think: your bed pillows!). Even if the pooch has outdoor access while you’re away, a mid-day walk or run makes life much easier for everyone involved. If you can’t make it home mid-day yourself, maybe consider hiring a dog walker to dash your dog. It’s good for everybody. Your dog gets exercise, fresh air and good human company, and you come back to a home that looks much like the one you left.

Predictable Plans.  Just like kids, dogs do best with routines. To help minimize stress during transition times, try to keep your dog’s eating, exercising and snoozing schedules as predictable as possible.  With a little planning, you’ll help your dog flow from season to season, wagging all the while.

Your dog’s toys are worth every penny. Day in and day out, these virtually pup-proof products stand up to tug-of-war, backyard fetch-a-thons and super slobber. But even the toughest toys need maintenance from time to time. To keep your dog’s top toys in fighting shape and safe for play, Petplan vets recommend an occasional toy box audit.

It’s easy. Just take a closer look at your dog’s toys.  Is that stuffed squirrel losing its tail? Has the mouse toy lost its squeak? And what’s that dried junk on the rope toy? By taking the time to clean (or toss) your dog’s toys you can help prevent all sorts of unsavory situations from choking accidents to bacterial infections. Here’s how to get started:

Dishwasher:  After your dog finishes her Kong toy or other food puzzle, rinse it out and scrub the inside with a toothbrush to loosen stuck-on food. Then pop it the dishwasher along with any other rubber, nylon and plastic toys and run it on the hot cycle without detergent. One cycle will wash off all the nasty germs.

Every puppy parent experiences it. Suddenly, you’re the most popular person in the world. Strangers stop you on the street to pet your puppy. The neighbor you never met just happens to stop by to welcome your new “fur baby.” Puppies bring out the best in everybody. So the temptation to parade your new puppy around the dog park is understandable. But, as any veterinarian will tell you, it’s best to restrict your puppy from public outdoor areas until he’s at least four months old and has received his full canine parvovirus vaccination regime.  That’s because canine parvovirus type 2 (CPV-2), more commonly called “parvo” is a highly contagious and often fatal virus that attacks dividing cells (mainly in the bone marrow and intestines) of puppies and dogs who are not vaccinated.

Since the virus has been around for such a long time and because it’s so hardy, the safest assumption to make is that it can be everywhere outside of areas that you can clean and disinfect yourself. That means pet stores, sidewalks, puppy training classes and even other dogs are potential risks for young or unvaccinated puppies. Obviously, infected dogs are the most virulent source of infection but this resilient virus can live for long periods of time in conditions from extreme heat to freezing cold. Thus it’s important to wash clothes and shoes that may have been exposed to the virus to prevent contaminating new environments (i.e. your house!).

Most vets will take the time to inform new pet parents about the dangers and symptoms of parvo virus for their new puppies. Considering that the majority of deaths from parvo occurs in just 48-72 hours from the first sign of symptoms, immediate veterinary care is essential to save a dog’s life.  Common parvo symptons include:

-          Lethargic

-          Refusing to eat

-          Fever

-          Vomiting

-          Severe bloody diarrhea

-          Dehydration

If you suspect that your puppy has parvo, your veterinarian will likely confirm the diagnosis with a specialized fecal test. To date no mainstream medications exist to combat the virus directly, so your vet will give supportive care to treat against the two main risks: dehydration and systemic bacterial infection. The mainstays of parvo treatment are intravenous fluid therapy and antibiotics, both of which can be required for many days. To avoid the risk of exposing other dogs to the virus, infected pets are held in an isolation unit during treatment. Infected dogs should also have their toys, bowls, bedding and accessories disinfected with a bleach mixture (1 part bleach to 30 parts water).

Every year, Petplan receives claims for puppies and dogs who were infected with parvovirus and became gravely ill or have even died. Timely vaccination is key in preventing parvovirus infection. Work with your veterinarian and their team to make sure that any dog that you adopt or buy has had the appropriate vaccines and is scheduled to receive the their boosters. Responsible breeders and shelters will have records of all of the vaccines that pets have received while in their care. Once your pet is vaccinated, ensure that you boost your pets vaccines (usually every three years for pets two years and older) or perform annual titers to test that your pet has adequate immunity to parvovirus.

For more information on preventing and treating parvo, ask your vet or check out the helpful content available at the American Veterinary Medical Association.

Table manners aside, your dog’s urgent eating style simply won’t do. Gulping down breakfast is not only a choking risk, but, in some cases, can increase the risk of a life-threatening condition called gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV).  Also known as the dreaded “bloat,” GDV is a true canine emergency, often requiring surgery to correct. It occurs when a dog’s stomach fills with air and compresses the diaphragm and abdominal veins causing a restriction of blood flow to the heart.  The air-filled stomach can easily rotate, cutting off the dog’s blood supply to the stomach. Without emergency treatment, it’s only a matter of time before the stomach tissue dies. By learning to recognize the signs of canine bloat and responding immediately, you can help prevent the devastating consequences of this condition.  

Who Gets Bloat?

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Large breed dogs with narrow chests are much more likely than smaller breeds to get GDV

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Male dogs over the age of seven are twice as likely to get GDV than females

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Dogs who eat too fast and exercise soon afterwards and/or eat just once a day are also seem to be at an increased risk

What are the Symptoms?

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Bloated, distended belly

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• Retching

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• Dry heaving

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• Shallow breathing

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• Weak pulse

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• Rapid heart rate

Can I Prevent Bloat?

It’s not possible to completely sure tprevent bloat. But if your dog is at an increased risk, you can help protect against it by making sure to:

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Feed your dog two to three times each day

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Limit water and exercise one hour before and after eating

Thanks to excellent veterinary care, Petplan receives countless claims for dogs who recover from GDV every year. To help protect your dog from GDV, take the time to ask your vet for suggestions at your next appointment.

Your dog gets the best of everything. High-quality food, fresh air, exercise, and of course, loves -- what more could she need?   Other than comprehensive pet insurance, dogs really benefit from the nutritional boost of vitamin supplements to help keep them healthy.  And supplements such as glucosamine or chondroitin can actually prevent and manage joint pain. But with so many supplements to choose from, how can you decide what’s best for your pet?

Petplan veterinarians encourage you to ask your vet before offering any vitamin or minerals supplements to your pet. She’ll likely consider your pet’s age, breed, diet and medical conditions before recommending supplements she trusts.  Your vet’s recommendation is also important because pet supplements are not reviewed or approved by the FDA and have absolutely no manufacture restrictions requiring consistent formulations. Ultimately, by heeding your vet’s advice, you can avoid choosing poor-quality pet supplements with improper ingredient levels or even heavy metals and pesticides. 

To help your vet select safe, reliable veterinary supplements, they learn to follow the ACCLAIM system below.  Check it out.  It can really come in handy when reviewing any products for your pet.

A = A name you recognize. Choose an established company that provides educational materials for veterinarians and other consumers. Is it a company that is well established?

C = Clinical experience. Companies that support clinical research and have their products used in clinical trials that are published in peer-reviewed journals to which veterinarians have access are more likely to have a quality product.

C = Contents. All ingredients should be clearly indicated on the product label.

L = Label claims. Label claims that sound too good to be true likely are. Choose products with realistic label claims.

A = Administration recommendations.  Dosing instructions should be accurate and easy to follow. It should be easy to calculate the amount of active ingredient administered per dose per day.

I = Identification of lot. A lot identification number indicates that a surveillance system exists to ensure product quality.

M = Manufacturer information. Basic company information should be clearly stated on the label including a website (that is up and running) or some other means of contacting customer support.

Your furriest family members don’t know it yet, but they have other plans for the holiday weekend. But don’t feel too bad for them. While you skip out of town, your dogs and cats will live it up. Thanks to a broad selection of pet care options, your little darlings have their pick of quality care. Perhaps they’d enjoy the comforts of home with a private staff on call. Or maybe, a cushy pet spa with in-room massage and treat service is more their style. The Pet Care Services Association makes it easy to find the perfect pet care in your area. To get started, check out their handy “How to Select a Pet Care Facility” guide for all the facts you need. http://petcareservices.org/files/comm_id_46/How_To_Select_a_Pet_Facility.pdf

Here are some just of the highlights:

Ask Around the Dog Park.  Tap pet people for their trusted pet care resources. Your dog’s park pals may have a great pet-sitter, or kennel your dog will love. Get a few contact numbers and start calling around to pet care providers that come well-referred.

Pop in.  If you’re considering a pet care kennel or boarding facility, plan to stop by to meet the staff and tour the grounds. Splashy websites and brochures can be deceiving. First, check to see that the facility is licensed by the state. Then take a look around to see that it’s clean, comfortable and well-secured.  By actually visiting you’ll get a feel for the place – everything from temperature, to supervision, to layout can make a difference in your decision.

Get the Details. What are the reservation and cancellation policies? How does the staff handle emergencies? Do they require vaccination records for all the pets?  Take the time to ask questions about the facility’s policies and specifics concerning your pets’ stay. For example, you may want to know if your dog will get one-on-one playtime, or private time away from the other animals. 

Pack Your Pets.  Aside from your pets’ favorite blanket and toys, pack along their vaccination records, their veterinarian’s contact information, and a phone number where you can be reached while out of town. The boarding facility or pet-sitter should request all this information from you before taking responsibility for your pets.

At Petplan, your pet’s health and well-being is our top priority. That’s why we recommend taking your time to find the right boarding or pet-sitter match for your pet’s needs. This way, you can rest assured that your pets are safe and happy until you’re together again… at last.

Congratulations, that’s one seriously fluffy kitty you’ve got there. But how about lending a paw to help keep her groomed and gorgeous? After all, the last thing any cat wants is a hairball backing up in her belly. Even the most well-groomed kitties expel an occasional hairball, but some cats, especially the serious shedders, have bigger hairball problems. It might seem unpleasant but having your cat leave you the little present of a hacked-up furball on the rug (a high traffic area, of course!) is the best thing that can happen to this excess hair that is swallowed while grooming. Once a hairball gets trapped in the intestinal tract, this little wad of fur can become dangerous by potentially causing an obstruction. In fact, many feline digestive track impactions are the result of the menacing hairball.

If your kitty suffers from chronic hairball drama, make sure to watch her for signs of trouble and take her to veterinarian. Kitties with problematic hairballs often vomit undigested food, dry retch and have swollen abdomens. Litter box signs include diarrhea or no bowel movements at all. Fortunately, even the fluffiest kitties can prevent hairball with regular brushings and preventative products. Here are just a few suggestions to discuss with your vet:

Brush the Fluff.  Help reduce hair ingestion by regularly brushing your cat. Petplan vets recommend using a specialized cat grooming tool, such as a dual-sided brush, or the Furminator de-shedding tool to gently and safely remove excess undercoat fur. http://www.furminator.com/shedless.cfm

Bulk Up. Fiber sources, such as natural cat grass, add substance and moisture to your cat’s stool making it easier for her to pass a hairball. A variety of cat foods also include special fiber formulas for hairball control. Ask your vet to recommend one for your cat.

Go H20. Help ease your cat’s digestion by keeping her bowl filled with fresh, clean drinking water at all times. Using a water fountain that supplies a constant source of cool, well-oxygenated water can help encourage your pet to drink more. http://www.vetventures.com/

ReLax. Talk with your vet about the many hairball laxative options on the market. These petroleum based products, are added to your cat’s food to help coat the stool for easier elimination. http://www.tomlyn.com/pages/pr_cat_01.html